Warming Up to Greenland

For as long as I can remember, my only image of Greenland was an ice-covered mass of land looming 35,000 feet below the window of a trans-Atlantic jet. A closer, „down-to-earth“ look at the greatest show on ice reveals the vast dimensions of the largest island in the world, which encompasses over 800,000 square miles and is the size of Great Britain, France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, Italy, and Austria combined! Most of Greenland lies beneath an ice cap that covers 85 percent of its surface and in some places is more than 100,000 years old and 9,000 feet thick. While Greenland has previously been „off the map“ as a destination for Americans, this situation should change significantly in the coming years with expanded air service and an increase in the number of cruise ships sailing to the island. The launch of the first non-stop flights from the United States to Greenland this past summer was a major milestone for Greenland tourism, which is seeking to expand the U.S. market. Most of last year’s 35,000 visitors came primarily from Denmark (Greenland is a Danish protectorate), Germany, and other European countries, with only a smattering of Americans. Twice weekly flights aboard an Air Greenland 757 between Baltimore’s BWI airport and Kangerlussuaq International Airport in Greenland began in late May and continued through the end of August. A similar schedule is slated for 2008, although exact dates have yet to be determined. The flight takes just four and a half hours, and I was among the first group of American journalists invited to experience the island firsthand.

Musk Ox and Whales

COASTAL BEAUTY: This photo of the old part of Nuuk, situated on the west Greenland coast, provides a glimpse of the European-style architecture found in the region. (Courtesy of Greenland Tourism/Manfred Horender)

Shortly after landing, we were met by a guide based in Kangerlussuaq who took us on a fascinating half-day tour beginning with a stop at a nearby research center involved in a study of the northern lights. With over 300 cloudless days a year, this area is one of the best places in the world to observe undulating waves of multi-colored lights flashing across the night sky. From here, we drove 25 jostling miles in a 4WD truck to the edge of the ice cap where we hiked across a section of ice that extended in all directions as far as the eye could see. We then bumped across more rough terrain, encountering herds of reindeer and musk ox en route to Russell Glacier, a towering wall of ice and snow that in some places is more than 200 feet high.

From Kangerlussuaq, it’s a short 45-minute flight to Nuuk which has the twin distinction of being Greenland’s largest town (population 15,000) as well as the smallest capital in the world. There are just 18 towns in Greenland with a combined population of 55,000. More than 25 percent live in Nuuk, while the rest inhabit 17 other towns and villages located primarily on the west coast with a few remote villages scattered on the east coast. With no roads between towns, the only way to travel between them is by air or sea.

DINNER? The author enjoyed a sumptuous meal of Greenlander favorites, among which was musk ox, at the Gertrud Husk in Nuuk. These local "inhabitants" can be seen often while touring western Greenland. (Courtesy of Greenland Tourism/ Lars Reimers)

We were transported from the airport to Hotel Hans Egede which gets its name from the missionary who founded Nuuk in 1728. After checking in, we headed up to the Sky Line Bar on the top floor which provides an overview of the town and is a favorite local watering hole where tourists and local Nuukians meet and mingle. Adjacent to the bar is the gourmet restaurant Gertrud Husk where we dined on a meal of Greenlander favorites including smoked salmon rolled in Japanese noodles, musk ox with potato, snow crab cake, and pickled rhubarb.

During our first day there, we took a four-hour whale watching cruise up one of the fjords that is part of the second largest fjord system in the world. Everyone was on the lookout for humpback, minke, and fin whales which inhabit these waters between May and September. Unfortunately, visibility was limited due to low clouds, fog, and mist and the whales were nowhere to be found. However, we were still able to visit the ruins of the settlement where Nuuk founder, Hans Egede, lived upon his arrival in Greenland. The second day was devoted to fishing aboard the MV Sirius manned by Captain Bo Lings, who knows the fjords like the back of his hand. He steered us to an area teeming with fish, where even a certified incompetent angler (me) was able to snag two cod. Several in our group reeled in more than five and, once our barrel was full, the captain cleaned and prepared the fish for grilling. Soon, we were feasting on our delicious „catch of the day.“

The Ultimate Challenge

FOUNDER’S HOME: The house in the foreground was built by Nuuk founder Hans Egede in 1728. (Courtesy of Greenland Tourism)

From Nuuk, we headed north up to Disko Bay and the nearby town of Ilulissat (the Greenlander word for iceberg). Ilulissat is Greenland’s third largest town (population 4,000) and is located 300 miles above the Arctic Circle where there are more sled dogs than people. The town is blessed with a magnificent seascape and landscape framed by jagged snow-covered peaks. Located here is the Ilulissat ice fjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site that is one of Mother Nature’s most awesome displays. Nearby Jakobshavn Gglacier, the most productive glacier in the northern hemisphere, constantly calves icebergs that resemble huge floating sculptures as large as cathedrals. After breaking off from the glacier, these giant bergs drift down to the mouth of the fjord where many run aground just offshore. (Some scientists believe that the iceberg that sank the Titanic came from here.) The cruise around Disko Bay in between and around the icebergs, an excursion that is only possible here and in Antarctica, took us within touching distance of ice glittering in varying shades of blue and white. From Ilulissat, you can also hike to the prehistoric settlement of Sermermiut and take a helicopter tour which sweeps over glaciers and the ice cap.

Greenland especially appeals to a select niche of „eco-tourists“ seeking close encounters with nature and who enjoy hiking, backpacking, mountain biking, boating, fishing, and kayaking. Those who prefer to explore the countryside on foot have plenty of choices available, from moderate day-long hikes that wend their way past crystal clear streams and lakes to hikes on glaciers and the ice cap to strenuous 7- to 14- day treks across mountainous terrain. Intrepid adventurers in search of the ultimate challenge compete in Greenland’s 100-mile Arctic Circle Race. Held every April, the world’s toughest cross-country race is an ultimate test of perseverance and endurance. Another daunting test of courage and stamina is a hike during the winter from the west coast to the east coast. Anyone bold enough to attempt this epic journey that takes 25–30 days to complete in brutally cold temperatures should be sure to bring their polar bear pants.

Greenland Sustains

ICY BEAUTY: View over Ilulisatt Ice Fjord, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004. (Courtesy of Greenland Tourism/Steen Karup)

While some governments as well as tourism organizations and venues have recently begun to focus on sustainability issues, Greenland was one of the first destinations to advocate and practice the principles of sustainable tourism from conservation of ecosystems to restricting overbuilding by developers. By necessity, it has long enforced strict pollution controls since any waste disposed of on land or in the sea takes much longer to degrade than in more temperate climates.

As a result, Greenland is blessed with some of the purest air and water on the planet. Several tourism officials that I met during my stay emphasized that Greenland will continue to resist the overbuilding by developers that has damaged ecosystems and transformed unspoiled coastlines and pristine landscapes into unsightly eyesores. There are currently just 700 hotel rooms on Greenland and, while new hotels will be built and rooms added to existing hotels, the island will remain free of high-rise chain hotels, sprawling malls, and tourist traps. It is also—at least for now—one of the few destinations without a Starbucks, Macdonald’s, Pizza Hut, and other fast food outlets.

Greenland is also playing a key role in the study of global warming. A four-year project is currently underway that involves drilling far below the surface and extracting the deepest layers of ice to calibrate the extent that melting is occurring now as compared to past centuries.

The five days that I spent in Greenland last summer whetted my appetite for much more than outdoor pursuits, including a closer look at the native Inuit people. Beginning their arduous journey in Alaska, the Inuit arrived here in the 1400s and had to eke out a living in a harsh climate with minimal shelter and nothing to protect them but the clothes on their backs. I believe my Greenland experience could be enriched by meeting and interacting with descendants of these original settlers and learning more about their heritage, culture, and everyday life.

For information on tour operators that can arrange tour packages, Greenland outfitters, hotels, airline schedules, and more contact Greenland tourism at www.Greenland.com and Air Greenland at www.AirGreenland.com.